Used Ford Explorer 5th Gen (2011-2019): Buyer's Guide

The 3.5L V6 in the 5th gen Explorer has its water pump buried inside the engine block, driven by the timing chain. When the internal seal fails, coolant seeps into the crankcase. There's a small weep hole designed to warn you before the oil gets contaminated, but it clogs with road debris. Most owners discover the failure too late. Dealer quotes range from $3,100 to $5,200 for the repair. That's the most consequential maintenance item in this generation, and most buyers walking onto a lot have never heard of it.

The 5th gen Ford Explorer ran from 2011 to 2019. Ford moved it from a body-on-frame truck to a unibody crossover in 2011, then spent nine years refining a platform that had a rough start. The result: four powertrain options with meaningfully different reliability profiles, a narrow band of model years worth targeting, and a set of platform-wide issues that show up regardless of which engine is under the hood.

Over 4,400 used 5th gen Explorers are listed for sale in the 2015-2019 range alone. The inventory is there. The question is which one to buy.

This Generation at a Glance

The 5th gen Explorer was built on the D4 platform, derived from the Ford Taurus and shared with the Ford Flex and Lincoln MKT. It was Ford's first Explorer built around a transverse front-wheel-drive architecture, with available all-wheel drive via a Power Transfer Unit (PTU) and Rear Drive Unit (RDU).

Two mid-cycle updates split the generation into three distinct phases:

2011-2015 (Launch era): Engines were the 2.0L EcoBoost I4 or the 3.5L V6 NA for base through Limited trims, and the 3.5L EcoBoost V6 for Sport starting in 2013. MyFord Touch infotainment. Six-speed automatic throughout.

2016-2017 (First refresh): The 2.0L EcoBoost was replaced by the 2.3L. Styling was updated. Platinum trim arrived. SYNC 3 replaced MyFord Touch. This is where the Explorer got meaningfully better.

2018-2019 (Second refresh): The 2.3L gained 10 hp (to 280 total). Minor exterior changes. These are the most refined 5th gen models.

Year pages: 2015 Explorer | 2016 Explorer | 2017 Explorer | 2018 Explorer | 2019 Explorer

Powertrain and Trim Breakdown

2.0L EcoBoost I4 (2011-2015): The Engine to Skip

The 2.0L EcoBoost made sense in a Fusion or an Escape. In a 4,500-pound three-row SUV, owners consistently describe it as underpowered, strained during merging, and annoying to drive loaded with passengers and cargo. That's the subjective complaint. The objective ones are reliability-related.

The 2.0L EcoBoost's timing chain tensioner wears prematurely. ExplorerForum threads going back to 2013 document a consistent pattern: a rattle appears on cold starts between 80,000 and 120,000 miles, sometimes earlier. Left unaddressed, the tensioner fails and the timing chain can skip or jump. Repair cost: $800 to $1,500 depending on what else gets replaced in the process.

Oil consumption is a secondary issue. The 2.0L EcoBoost burns oil faster than most owners expect, particularly at higher mileage. Checking oil levels every few thousand miles is not optional with this engine.

It's also a direct-injection engine, meaning carbon buildup on the intake valves is a real maintenance item rather than a theoretical one. Walnut blasting or chemical cleaning every 40,000 to 60,000 miles costs $300 to $500.

The boost solenoid can fail with age, cutting turbo performance, triggering a check engine light, and causing hesitation under throttle.

Forum consensus on the 2.0L EcoBoost in the Explorer is consistent: it's the wrong engine for this vehicle. If you're shopping 2011-2015 models and the listing has the 2.0L EcoBoost, move to the next listing. The 3.5L V6 is available in the same years on the same trims.

3.5L V6 NA Cyclone (2011-2019): The Right Engine

The naturally aspirated 3.5L V6 (Cyclone, later Ti-VCT) is the most reliable powertrain in the 5th gen Explorer. ExplorerForum threads on "3.5 NA reliability" consistently report 150,000 to 200,000+ miles from this engine with regular maintenance. That's the community consensus. It matches repair data from RepairPal and owner reviews.

It has two specific failure modes you should know before buying.

Internal water pump. The 3.5L V6's water pump is mounted inside the timing cover, driven by the timing chain itself. When the internal seal fails, coolant migrates into the crankcase and mixes with the oil. The weep hole designed to warn you with visible coolant drips clogs with road debris and oil residue. Owners who check the dipstick regularly catch it early; owners who don't discover milky oil after the contamination has already reached the bearings.

Repair requires pulling the timing cover and replacing the pump, chains, tensioners, and guides simultaneously. Labor runs 10 to 15 hours. Total cost: $1,200 to $5,200 depending on the shop and how far the contamination spread. Proactive replacement at 100,000 miles costs $1,500 to $2,500 and eliminates the risk entirely. On any high-mileage 3.5L V6 without water pump records, build that cost into your offer.

Cam phaser rattle on cold starts. The Ti-VCT variable cam timing phasers can produce a short rattle when cold, especially in sub-freezing temperatures. Forum members across ExplorerForum.com consistently describe this as normal behavior that clears within 10 to 15 seconds as oil pressure builds. That version is not a problem. A rattle that persists after warmup, or varies with RPM at operating temperature, indicates worn phasers or low oil pressure. Cam phaser replacement runs $700 to $1,200 and up depending on access.

Both issues are manageable with preventive maintenance. The 3.5L V6 is not a fragile engine. It's the correct powertrain for the 5th gen Explorer.

3.5L EcoBoost V6 (2013-2019): Sport Trim's Engine

The 3.5L EcoBoost is the twin-turbocharged version of the same V6, producing 350 hp and 350 lb-ft of torque. It came standard in every Sport trim and as an option in Platinum trim from 2016 onward. AWD only.

Performance is substantially different from the naturally aspirated engine. The 3.5EB pulls hard from a stop and pulls harder at highway speed. Towing capacity with this engine is 5,000 lbs versus 3,000 lbs for the four-cylinders. For buyers who need genuine towing capacity or want the Explorer to feel quick with all seven seats occupied, this engine earns it.

The maintenance requirements are also specific.

Intercooler condensation misfires. In high humidity or wet conditions, moisture accumulates inside the charge air cooler. Under wide-open throttle above 2,500 rpm, that condensate gets ingested and causes a stumble or misfire. It feels like a brief violent hesitation. Ford addressed this with TSB 13-8-1, which repositions an air deflector on the intercooler to help moisture vaporize rather than pool. Many owners also drilled a small weep hole in the bottom of the charge air cooler to let condensate drain continuously. Neither is a perfect cure, but the TSB significantly reduces the frequency of the misfire event.

Timing chain wear. The 3.5EB uses the same timing chain architecture as the naturally aspirated engine, plus the added heat load from twin turbos. ExplorerForum consensus is clear: owners who push oil changes past 7,500 miles start seeing chain stretch by 100,000 miles. This engine wants a 5,000-mile oil change interval or shorter if you drive hard. There is no shortcut.

Internal water pump. Same design, same failure mode as the 3.5L V6 NA. The pump is inside the timing cover. Same proactive replacement recommendation at 100,000 miles applies here.

Carbon buildup. All direct-injection engines need the intake valves cleaned periodically. Plan for walnut blasting or equivalent every 40,000 to 60,000 miles.

The 3.5L EcoBoost is capable and proven. Owners who maintain it properly consistently hit 150,000 to 200,000 miles. The maintenance ceiling is higher than the naturally aspirated engine's. If you're buying a Sport or EcoBoost Platinum, know what that means going in.

2.3L EcoBoost I4 (2016-2019): The Improved Four-Cylinder

When Ford replaced the 2.0L EcoBoost with the 2.3L in 2016, the forum verdict was immediate: the Explorer finally had the right four-cylinder for its weight. The 2.3L makes 270 hp from launch (280 from 2018), 300 lb-ft of torque, and returns 22 MPG combined on EPA testing. It's better matched to the platform in both performance and thermal management than the 2.0L it replaced.

Known issues are milder. Carbon buildup from direct injection is the primary one: walnut blasting every 40,000 to 60,000 miles. Some owners report cam phaser noise on cold starts, similar to the 3.5L V6 pattern. Head gasket concerns exist for the 2.3L EcoBoost in the Focus RS; this has not been documented as a pattern issue in the Explorer application, where the engine runs in a lower-stress configuration.

For buyers who prioritize fuel efficiency or don't need Sport-level power, the 2.3L EcoBoost in a 2016-2019 Explorer is a solid, defensible choice.

AWD: PTU and RDU Failure (Applies to Every AWD Model)

Ford labeled the fluid in both the PTU and RDU as "lifetime fill" and left both units out of the maintenance schedule. The fluid is not lifetime.

The PTU is a compact gearbox bolted to the transaxle that sends torque rearward. It sits near exhaust components and holds a small volume of fluid. By 80,000 miles on an unserviced PTU, the fluid has degraded past its operating specification. The unit overheats and destroys its own bearings. Early warning signs: a propane-like or sulfur smell, gear whine above 40 mph, drivetrain vibration. Once symptoms appear, the unit is already damaged. Replacement: $1,500 to $2,200.

The RDU fails for the same reason, typically between 60,000 and 100,000 miles on unserviced vehicles. Symptoms: grinding in tight turns, bearing noise. Replacement: $2,500 to $4,000.

The preventive fix: change both fluids every 30,000 to 60,000 miles using Motorcraft XL-12 Full Synthetic PTU fluid. The fluid costs about $20. The service takes 30 minutes. If you're buying an AWD Explorer with no PTU or RDU service records, plan to do both services the week you take delivery. The PTU drain plug is magnetic; if there are metal shavings on it, the unit is already degraded.

Trim-Specific Notes

Base and XLT: Seven-passenger seating, power tailgate, and heated front seats show up on higher XLT packages. The right engine pairing for both trims is the 3.5L V6. If the listing shows a 2.0L EcoBoost, look for another car.

Limited: The most popular 5th gen trim in the used market. Adds leather seating surfaces, 20-inch wheels, power-folding mirrors, navigation, and heated rear seats. The 3.5L V6 pairs well with it. From 2016 onward, the 2.3L EcoBoost is also a reasonable choice.

Sport (2013-2019): The Sport trim comes exclusively with the 3.5L EcoBoost and AWD. Every Sport is the highest-powered, lowest-fuel-economy, highest-maintenance Explorer in the lineup. The exterior and interior have a darker, more aggressive appearance. The chassis has more body roll than the name implies. Sport buyers are buying the engine. If that tradeoff makes sense for you, it's a legitimate choice. If you want the Sport's looks without the EcoBoost's demands, you're looking for a Platinum.

Platinum (2016-2019): The luxury trim. Massaging front seats, adaptive cruise, surround-view camera, premium audio. The Platinum can be configured with the 3.5L EcoBoost, the 2.3L EcoBoost, or the 3.5L V6, which makes it more versatile than the Sport. A 2018 or 2019 Platinum with the 2.3L EcoBoost is the quietest, most fully equipped choice in the 5th gen lineup without the fuel penalty or maintenance overhead of the EcoBoost V6.

There is no air suspension option on 5th gen Explorers. Coil springs throughout.

Which Model Years to Target Within This Generation

The 2011-2013 model years are the problem years. The 2011 launch brought water leaks in the third row and spare tire well, transmission hesitation during the platform transition to front-wheel-drive architecture, and MyFord Touch generation one, which Ford engineers internally described as "a polished turd." The 2013 model year logged over 2,000 NHTSA complaints, the highest of any 5th gen year.

The 2016 model year is complicated. The 2.3L EcoBoost was new and unvalidated in that year's production, and NHTSA complaint data shows a spike in structural and exhaust-related complaints.

The 2017-2019 models are where the 5th gen finally delivered on its potential. Consumer Reports gave the 2017 a reliability score of 4.5 out of 5. The 2018 and 2019 show complaint counts around 400 to 500, compared to over 2,000 for the 2013. These years have the most inventory and the most refined vehicles in the generation.

For FWD buyers: a 2018 or 2019 with the 3.5L V6 or 2.3L EcoBoost is the clear recommendation. For AWD buyers: same years, with PTU and RDU fluid service factored into the budget.

Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist

All powertrains and years:

• Before the test drive, run the VIN through NHTSA's recall database. Look specifically for open recalls 21S43 (rear toe link fracture), 14V286 (power steering), the A-pillar trim detachment recall, and Field Service Action 17B25 (exhaust intrusion). A selling dealer must complete all open recalls at no cost to you.
• Cold start from overnight. A light tick that clears within 15 seconds is normal cold-start cam phaser behavior. A tick that stays or varies with RPM at operating temperature is a warning sign.
• At full operating temperature, accelerate hard from a stop. Any misfire, stumble, or hesitation under full throttle warrants investigation.
• Test the HVAC at highway speed with windows up, pressing the AC hard during a full-throttle acceleration. Any exhaust odor or rotten egg smell inside the cabin is the CO intrusion issue. Walk away or verify FSA 17B25 work was completed on the VIN.
• Pull the dipstick after the test drive. Oil should be amber or golden. Milky, frothy, or caramel-colored oil is coolant contamination from the internal water pump. Do not buy this vehicle.
• Inspect the third row floor and the spare tire well for water stains, dampness, or rust. The 2011-2015 models had chronic rear water leaks from poor body sealing.
• Test every SYNC feature: backup camera, navigation, Bluetooth, all climate zones, all audio sources. A dead screen or frozen APIM module on a 2011-2015 model (MyFord Touch) costs $300 to $800 to repair.

3.5L V6 NA specific:

• Pull service records. Ask whether the water pump was ever replaced. On vehicles above 100,000 miles without a water pump history, factor in $1,500 to $2,500 for proactive replacement as a negotiating point.
• In a parking lot at low speed, turn the wheel to full lock in both directions. Any clunking, grinding, or a "POWER STEERING ASSIST FAULT" message on the dashboard indicates EPAS rack wear. Rack and pinion replacement runs $2,000 to $4,300.

3.5L EcoBoost Sport specific:

• If possible, test drive in wet or humid conditions to surface the intercooler condensation misfire. Under full throttle above 2,500 rpm, any stumble is the known issue. Ask if TSB 13-8-1 was performed.
• Ask for oil change records. Intervals longer than 7,500 miles on a 3.5EB are red flags for timing chain wear.

2.0L EcoBoost specific (2011-2015):

• Listen very carefully on cold start for a timing chain rattle. If it appears and does not clear within 15 seconds, factor $800 to $1,500 for a tensioner replacement into your offer. Better option: buy the 3.5L V6 instead.

AWD models (all engines):

• Ask for PTU and RDU fluid service records. If none exist, budget for both services immediately post-purchase.
• In a parking lot, drive slowly through a full-lock turn in each direction. Any grinding, howl, or shudder from the rear is RDU wear.

Run every VIN through the free recall check.

Running Costs

AWD surcharge: PTU and RDU fluid changes every 30,000 to 60,000 miles add roughly $30 to $50 per year when maintained properly. On a high-mileage AWD Explorer with no service records for either unit, first-year service costs $150 to $400.

Water pump reality: on any 3.5L V6 or 3.5L EcoBoost above 100,000 miles without a documented water pump replacement, treat that cost as a near-term certainty rather than a contingency. Finding milky oil three months after purchase is far worse than pricing it into your offer.

FAQ

What year Ford Explorer 5th gen should I avoid? Avoid 2011, 2012, and 2013. The 2013 model year generated more NHTSA complaints than any other year in the generation, over 2,000 total. The 2011 launch brought water leaks, transmission hesitation, and early MyFord Touch software that Ford's own engineers documented as deeply flawed. The 2016 is also a caution year due to complaint spikes and an unproven first-year 2.3L EcoBoost.

Is the Ford Explorer 3.5L EcoBoost reliable? Yes, with strict maintenance. The timing chain requires oil changes every 5,000 miles or less. The internal water pump should be proactively replaced at 100,000 miles. The intercooler condensation misfire is a known condition with TSB 13-8-1 as the documented fix. Owners who maintain this engine properly consistently report 150,000 to 200,000+ miles. It's the engine that demands the most from you, but it delivers when you deliver.

What is the best year to buy a 5th gen Ford Explorer? The 2018 is the sweet spot. It benefits from the 2.3L EcoBoost upgrade to 280 hp, has the most complaint-free production record in the generation, and has strong used inventory with over 1,200 listings. The 2017 is a close second with a Consumer Reports reliability score of 4.5 out of 5. Both years offer the full 5th gen feature set without the early-generation teething problems.

Does the 5th gen Ford Explorer have a carbon monoxide problem? The exhaust fume intrusion issue affected primarily 2011-2017 Explorers. NHTSA investigated for six years and closed the inquiry in January 2023 without issuing a formal recall, but Ford issued Field Service Action 17B25 covering sealing repairs and HVAC reprogramming. Three deaths and 657 injuries were reported in NHTSA complaints that owners linked to exhaust fumes. Before buying any 2011-2017 Explorer, verify FSA 17B25 was completed on the VIN. Vehicles with rear-end collision history are at elevated risk due to disrupted body sealing.

How many miles does a 5th gen Ford Explorer last? The 3.5L V6 NA commonly reaches 200,000 miles or beyond based on owner reports across ExplorerForum.com and repair data from RepairPal. The 3.5L EcoBoost reaches similar mileage with strict oil change discipline. The 2.0L EcoBoost is the most variable: owners who maintained it carefully hit 150,000+ miles; owners who didn't encounter timing chain failures well before that. PTU and RDU failure are independent of engine mileage and depend on whether those units were ever serviced.

Bottom Line

The 2017 or 2018 Explorer with the 3.5L V6 NA is the safest pick in the generation. If you want the four-cylinder, start no earlier than 2016 with the 2.3L EcoBoost and skip the 2.0L entirely. If you want Sport performance, the 3.5L EcoBoost delivers with strict oil change discipline.

On any AWD model: verify PTU and RDU service history and budget for both if records are missing. On any 3.5L V6 above 100,000 miles: factor in water pump replacement or use it as a negotiating point.

Run every VIN through a recall check before you drive the car off the lot. CarScout members can set price alerts on specific 5th gen Explorer years, trims, and powertrains at usecarscout.com.

Data sourced from NHTSA recalls database, EPA fuel economy data, Consumer Reports reliability scores, and owner reports from ExplorerForum.com, FordExplorer.org, BobIsTheOilGuy.com, RepairPal complaint records, and TransmissionRepaircostguide.com. See the full Ford Explorer market data for current pricing and inventory.